F Trek’s Adventures in Patagonia

Written by: Camilla and Stella

A 3 hour van ride down the edge of Lago General Carrera. A boat ride across Lago Bertrand into Lago Plomo, past waterfalls and teal-colored water. Meeting our guides for the next week on their rocky beach: John Hauf, Liam, and Gretty.

Hiking up towards John Hauf’s ranch through buggy and thorny hillsides. Navigating by muddy cowpaths that seem to go in circles and disappear around every turn. Baby horses and bull cows and green shrieking parakeets. Dunking in Lago Plomo. Hiking up the Solar Valley and braving all its river crossings. Walls of mountains on either side of us—snow covered and craggy and epically beautiful. A snowstorm and a couple days of rain. Wet boots and wet socks and lots of smiling faces.

Meeting Don Luis and Don Mancho- gauchos with pack horses and weathered faces and the friendliest hand shakes.  A detour through a bog. Mud up to our thighs. John Hauf slipping us candy and dad jokes. A last minute bushwhacking jaunt (just for fun). Lots of hot drinks and lots of laughter. Sharing our traditions with these new friends. The sunset reflecting off of Las Horquetas. The sound of ice fall and avalanches echoing through the valley.

A glacier hidden in the fog just up ahead. Learning about terminal marines and singing Hamilton as we walk through sloppy fields. Hearing a cow moo somewhere close. Looping back to John Haufs ranch. His parting gift of white plum jam. Misty boat ride across glacial waters back to Puerto Bertrand. Van ride naps and spotting wild flamingos on the way back to our hostel home. A hot dinner and a lukewarm shower. Adventures had, adventures to come. 

-Camilla

Part two:

One very eventful and fun day was when we traversed right into and through a bog. On the fourth day of expedition, about halfway through our hike, we found ourselves straying away from the solid ground of the trail, and instead sinking and dragging our feet through thick mud. Our accidental route was such a surprise that we immediately started laughing, singing swamp songs, and having an amazing time. The more we fell, the more amused we became. When we finally made it onto land at least an hour later, not only did we feel relief (great amounts), but also a sense of adventure and bonding. Only something like getting waist high in sulfuric mud together can make our group laugh like that.

The very same day, we arrived muddy, wet and in good spirits to the end of the valley and nearest to the glacier we were headed for. It had started snowing and the clouds were hanging low, making it so we could not see the giant mountains and glacier looming so near. Nevertheless, John Hauf taught us lessons about this glacier, the timeline of its recession and how it shaped the valley we were camping in. During our time at this campsite, we could hear avalanches falling off the glacier and crashing down. It was such a special and incredible experience to be the only ones in the vast remote valley, learning about the land from those who know it best, all while the snow fell and we huddled  close together to stay  warm. 

-Stella