HMI Traverse
Written by: Yari and Drew
Deserts! Canyons! Chairs! Oh my!
Hello from the Horse Head Mountain Lodge, smack on our country’s lovely four corners and somewhere in the fields in-between the dusty towns of Monticello and Blanding. We’re returning from back-to-back expeditions in Moab and Bear’s Ears National Monument, ripe with stories and sunburned noses. From first climbs in the martian landscapes of Moab to final frozen nights circumnavigating Jacob’s Chair, we’ve now done just about 30 days straight “off the grid” and away from the influences and comforts of society – learning more and more about ourselves, each other, and the most spectacular landscapes around us.
Saying goodbye to fast-made Trek friends to embark from frozen Leadville and the homey “In the Clouds” hostel, spirits were high for a road trip to the uncharted landscapes of the desert. Six hours later we paused for a gas stop in an entirely different world, and were blasted in the face with something quite foreign to the past few weeks – heat! Puffy jackets and sweats were replaced by t-shirts and bucket hats, and after a significantly shorter drive through quirky Moab we arrived upon the Ledges campsite, our home for the next eleven days. The scenery was like nothing seen before to our predominantly northeastern-abiding group, and a blazing sunset while we set up base camp truly welcomed us to these new lands.
We woke up the next morning to start our collective climbing careers at a crag (climbing site) called The Theatre. After a short bus ride and a comprehensive gear demonstration full with fresh vocabulary we were off to the races and began bombarding sandstone walls with vigor. This highly stoked discovery continued intermittently throughout our days in Moab, where we were introduced to many different and intriguing facets of the sport. This included slab climbing on the angled walls of The Ice Cream Parlor, bouldering endless routes at Big Bend Boulders, or simply witnessing the eccentric community that makes up the sport at Wall Street – an aptly named famous crag about ten feet off a road bordering the Colorado River. Our time on the rock didn’t come without a learning curve in this feral environment – noting a dislocated shoulder, the struggle to keep up a certain tent (or mid) most nights, and some questionable soup dinners – but throughout the few days we had climbing a remarkable amount of knowledge was imparted by our lovely instructors, and phenomenal progression was made by every member of the group on the rock.
When we weren’t scaling cliffs and protecting each other’s falls with crucial belay techniques, we were moving mountains and smashing the desert rock with equal quantities of vigor. Working on what will be the best mountain bike trail this side of the Mississippi with a creatively named organization called Trail Mix, the majority of our clan was introduced to the world of trail work by an extremely motivated group of volunteers. We dug, raked, rolled, and sledgehammered our way to success guided by these now legendary characters, and were able to give back in the smallest way to the community of Moab, learning about how our seemingly destructive efforts would preserve the delicate desert ecology that surrounded us. Sore backs, calloused hands, and seriously stinky bus rides were inevitable, but the effort was truly enjoyed by the group, extremely appreciated by Trail Mix, and resulted in some incredible nights of sleep. In addition to these wonderful activities we had a certain Doyle’s birthday on the 17th, a spirited celebration including a piñata and an excellently cooked chocolate cake. To many the base camp set up felt like a luxury vacation compared to the frozen Sawatch, and many developments and progressions were made within the group under the incredible desert stars.
Alas our days of luxury came to an end as we embarked on a new adventure, eager to take on a new trip and fresh terrain. This third expedition led us to the lands surrounding Jacob’s Chair, a bodacious butte we would fondly reference most days as we tried to locate our home for the night. Rains on our first night in Bears Ears brought trouble, as an impassable river emerged out of nowhere and caused us to alter the route. With excellent risk management a new plan was crafted – we drove a short way and crossed a calmer section of the flood using a handy “meat” anchor line and the least amount of clothing possible. Only once the stormy weather subsided did we truly experience the steep canyons and table-like landscape. In comparison to the distinct rusted Moab views, this new territory offered an abundance of matured bio-crust, oddly-shaped gargantuan rocks tempting for bouldering, and greenery all around.
A personal highlight of this expedition was our take on HMI’s infamous “Mesa Day.” The previous night, as the day’s peaceful sunset became a forethought, we sat at an evening meeting suddenly bewildered by a mysterious orb shooting across the horizon. An unusually bright meteor? A UFO? A casual Utah night. The night brought one last surprise as I found myself volunteering to act as L.O.D (Leader of the day) for the upcoming Mesa day. The I-team gleefully prefaced the day: our earliest departure time so far and ten miles of hiking with an entry and exit climb to top it off. We went to sleep without a cloud in the sky, excited for what awaited. Truth be told, the pending marathon was a bit overwhelming thanks to a near vertical start, but once we found our rhythm the day turned out for the better. The on-trail conversations boosted morale and we explored an abandoned mine house before regrouping for a descent from the Mesa. The ten miles were finished before we knew it. Ultimately, Jacob’s chair and the surrounding land provided us with a giant-sized playground for many firsts.
From narrow slot canyoneering to spooky costumed rappelling on Halloween, the following days of expedition gave our small community tons of new momentum. One layover day we explored nooks and crannies of a slot canyon that unexpectedly offered a group building activity to help me navigate up a particularly tricky section. Pro-Tip: Air Forces unfortunately do not have enough grip, despite their uncanny backcountry style. After re-ration day a long-awaited surprise visit from Sam and Nicholas brought a day of rappelling in a mix of climbing gear and our Halloween best: a traffic guard vest, a judge’s robe, a wolf tail, and innovative use of purple mascara and glitter were only a few of our props. The day ended with a German chocolate birthday cake for our I-team member Gabi, remarkably shipped in and delivered all the way from Miami!
Throughout all the fun and laughter, on the last few days of expedition our group was given the chance to lead our hikes without an I-team member present, a small glimpse into our final student-led expedition. With our backpacks strapped, lunches packed, and map in hand we embraced the challenge and had a great time along the way. On our penultimate night, we hosted a talent show that left no questions of our obvious abundance in talent – trademarked by tortillas. After nearly a month in the field, the whole group has grown fond of cowboy camping and all Utah has to offer, whether or not it was covered in two inches of snow. We look forward to a few rest days under the watchful eyes of petrified cougars and deer in the lodge and adventures lying ahead, namely a soggy ride through the big ditch! Love you mom, y estoy bien mama!
Signing off for now, Yari and Drew!